CCompass & Camel TrailsTunis Village · Fayoum · Since 2007
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Trail file 03 · Village & craft

Tunis Village pottery loop — eight kilometres through the Fayoum ceramic village.

Tunis Village, the cooperative's home on the southern shore of Lake Qarun, has been a working ceramic village since the 1980s when the Swiss potter Evelyn Porret established her studio here and trained the first generation of village potters. The village now hosts seventeen working kilns and around forty active potters across three generations. The cooperative's pottery loop is an eight-kilometre walk around the village and its three best-known kilns, with a half-day children's wheel session at the Issawi family's neighbour studio and lunch at the Issawi family farm.

The route, kiln by kiln.

The loop starts at the cooperative office at 09:00. The first kilometre runs west through the residential lanes of Tunis Village, past the open courtyard of Salma Saqr's family kiln — the village's longest-running family-owned ceramic operation, in continuous activity since 1984. Salma's daughter Aisha demonstrates the wheel for children who want to try; allow twenty minutes for this stop. The second and third kilometres run south through the new village extension, past two more kilns and the village's central square where the weekly Tuesday market spreads in the early hours. The fourth kilometre reaches the Issawi family farm, where the lunch fire is being lit; the children's wheel session, run at the studio next door to the farm, starts at 11:00 and lasts ninety minutes.

Lunch at the Issawi farm runs from 12:30 to 13:45. The food is from the farm itself — fresh bread baked that morning in the farm's outdoor oven, olive oil from the previous autumn's pressing, fresh tomatoes, white cheese made from the family goat's milk, a small lamb stew, and tea from the farm's own mint. After lunch the loop continues south for two kilometres along a path through the agricultural fringe of the village, past a working water-wheel that has been turning the same channel since the 1920s, before turning back east. The seventh kilometre is the most agricultural — fields of artichoke, broad bean and clover, plus a working dovecote tower that the cooperative's checklist now counts as a permanent perch for the resident kestrel pair. The final kilometre returns to the office through the southern lanes of the village; the loop closes at the office at approximately 16:30.

The wheel session.

The wheel session is the children's hour and a half at the studio next to the Issawi farm. Each child sits at a low electric wheel (the studio has six wheels, three sized for children) and is shown how to centre the clay, open the cylinder, lift the wall, and trim the rim. Three pieces per child are saved for firing. The firing happens in the next kiln cycle (usually within a fortnight), and the finished pieces are shipped to the family's home address through the village postal cooperative; shipping is included in the trail fee within Egypt and at cost (typically €18 to €35 per parcel) for international destinations. Adults are welcome to throw alongside their children; the studio has glaze choices in seven colours and the children choose theirs at the session.

Cultural and conservation context.

Tunis Village is on the Fayoum Heritage Foundation's protected list, registered with the Egyptian Ministry of Culture as a craft-village heritage site. The cooperative works with the Foundation on documentation and on the annual Tunis Pottery Festival held in mid-November; visiting families that fall on the festival weekend are welcome to add a half-day's festival visit at no additional fee. The cooperative's eighth member family, the Saad family who run the Whale Valley camp, were originally from Tunis Village and the family's grandparents were among the first potters trained at Evelyn Porret's studio. The continuity of craft tradition is one of the cooperative's interests in keeping the village walk in the catalogue; revenue from the trail fee supports the Issawi farm's heritage agricultural practices.

Family rating.

Recommended from age five upward; younger children can participate in the wheel session at the studio's discretion (small hands, small piece) but generally find the full eight-kilometre walking pace too long. The trail is suitable in all months except July and August when the midday heat in the village lanes makes the walking uncomfortable; we shift the November-to-April departure time to an 08:00 start during May, June and September to walk in the cooler hours. The loop crosses no major roads and is safe for children walking ahead of the adults at any age.

Weather and timing.

The trail runs in all months except midsummer. Best conditions are October through April; the Tuesday-market mornings produce the busiest lanes if you prefer the village in quiet, choose a Wednesday or Thursday. After the November pottery festival the village population doubles for a week — visiting potters from Cairo, Italy and France attend the festival's open kilns — and the cooperative recommends booking around but not during the festival weekend.

For the workshop file on the wheel session in its own right, the services index includes the pottery half-day as workshop programme 03. The Issawi family farm also hosts the lunch on most other cooperative trails; for the kit list applicable to this walk, see kids' trail essentials. The most-frequent combination is the Lake Qarun shoreline circuit on the day after the pottery loop.